Tuesday 6 September 2016

Dalwhinnie 15 Year Old Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Dalwhinnie 15"The Gentle Spirit".
If gentle, smooth, unobtrusive, uncomplicated and approachable are the aims of Dalwhinnie when bottling this expression, then I would say they achieved the goal. Dalwhinnie is certainly all that. From the moment it is in the glass, with no great need to allow it to open up, which is in itself surprising for a 15 year old Whisky;  You are immediately but gently greeted with sweet honey malt aromas, that seems to encourage you to dive right in and enjoy all this malt has to deliver. However here in lays the problem for me with Dalwhinnie. We are not quaffing a mass produced, over marketed, everyday blend to appeal to everybody . When we buy a malt Whisky such as Dalwhinnie we are looking for more than run of the mill . We are looking for something distinctive, a malt distillery signature if you will. Some describe as a Malt Moment. With Dalwhinnie I feel that some of that malt characteristic is lost in the apparent quest for smoothness, gentleness and ease of approach.          

Appearance: Amber -2. This is a very light malt and although not stated does not appear to contain, in my opinion, E150a

Nose: Sweet honey, Nectar, Dry champagne and a very light touch of smoke (campfire)

Taste: This is a well layered malt with just enough character to keep a malt aficionado entertained for some time. However also with well balanced and delicate honey, nectar, lemon, orange zest, grain and finishing with short dry smokey tea notes, this would certainly appeal to the newcomer to malt whisky. Gentle it is.    

Body: Light in color, light in style. No sign of oiliness in the body, which I feel detracts from the experience. As such, I do suspect this has, unfortunately, been quite heavily chill filtered. It finishes short sweet and dry.

Conclusion: For me the Dalwhinnie, represents a challenge. Not for the whisky but more for how to rate it and to whom I would recommend it. On one hand, the relative simplicity and gentle nature of the Dalwhinnie for a single malt suggests it would be a perfect entry level malt but given the inflated pricepoint of this Malt, it has priced itself out of that market. On the other hand a seasoned whisky buff looking to spend $100AU on a malt would be looking for far more of a challenge that the Dalwhinnie represents. In conclusion I might best look at it this way. Is the Dalwhinnie 15 a good whisky? Yes. Is the Dalwhinnie 15 a good malt? Yes. Is there more interesting and engaging malts for the price?  Yes. Would I personally buy Dalwhinnie 15 again? If I am to be honest, probably not. But then again for the right price perhaps.            

Friday 2 September 2016

Cragganmore 12 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Cragganmore 12 Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky



Cragganmore is often considered to be one of the most Speyside of Speysides Whisky’s.
This Malt displays all the hallmarks of the region from the elegant sweet, floral aromas to a soft, fruity yet complex pallet. Cragganmore does indeed tick all of the boxes a Speysider should, however this 12 year old malt does more than stamp your passport. Cragganmore introduces you to other elements that are far too understated in some of the more well-known and over marketed malts from the Speyside region.  One of the things to set Cragganmore apart from the bunch is the pronounced smokiness. Not in an overt Islay style way but a far more sweetness balancing way and not at all out of place

Appearance:  Amber +1, E150a (Caramel color) probably,  Chill filtered almost defiantly (No scotch haze with water)

Nose:  Vanilla, Honey, bubble gum, Fresh stone fruit, citrus, a hint of marzipan and distinctly Smokey (Slightly medicinal, perhaps Iodine).  

Pallet: Delivery is sweet with flavors of Honey, vanilla bean, marshmallow, rock Mellon, cola. The smoke is prominent right from the start. It then develops with mellow and a noticeable cereal graininess that acts like a calming influence over the immediate sweet notes. Then try to keep up as Cragganmore moves on, threatening to leave you behind, as black tea, quickly transitions to a smokey bitterness. Only to taste, the smokiness is almost hop like in its influence as a bitterness develops. The flavor profile in this malt is distinct but fleeting leaving you taking sip after sip trying to identify exactly what “that” was. 

Body:  Light and refined, no hint of oiliness with a dry and comfortable finish     


Conclusion:  Is this the final answer in terms of Speyside Whisky’s? Absolutely not. Is it the most expensive 12yo Speyside? Absolutely not. If I purchase this malt will I know everything there is to know about Speyside Whisky? Absolutely not.  What Cragganmore  represents, is a big step in the right direction. This is not a big $$$ Malt. This is a malt that opens your eyes and teases your pallet to the world beyond the liquor store mass marketed Fathers Day gift malts. Would I recommend Cragganmore 12 year old? Absolutely    

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